Easily lasted moccasin construction



June 23, 1964 J, H. GROSSMAN EASILY LASTED MOCCASIN CONSTRUCTION 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed April 1, 19

INVENTOR JEROME H. Gxzosswm.

BY (coal 6 DAVIDSON.

ATTORNEY June 23, 1964 J. H. GROSSMAN 3,137,951

EASILY LASTED MOCCASIN CONSTRUCTION Filed April 1, 1963 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR JEROME H. GROS5MAN BY J-ACOBI f1 DAvmsoH ATTORNEY June 23, 1964 V J. H. GROSSMAN 3,137,951

EASILY LASTED MOCCASIN CONSTRUCTION Filed April 1, 1963 3 Sheets-Sheet 5 INVENTOR JEROME H. GRossMAN BY Jkcoan 8 DAVIDSON ATTORNEY United States Patent EASELY LASTED MOCCASIN CONSTRUCTiGN Jerome H. Grossman, Bangor, Maine, assignor t0 Penobscot Shoe Company, Old Town, Maine, a corporation of Maine Filed Apr. 1, 1963, Ser. No. 269,296 8 Claims. (Cl. 36-11) This invention relates generally to shoes, and is particularly concerned with shoes of the moccasin type.

In older, and more conventional forms of moccasintype shoes, certain joining operations of the parts used to form the moccasin must be carried out by hand-sewing. Because of the increased expense in labor, as well as the time consuming requirements in performing hand operations, suggestions have previously been made as to the manner in which moccasin type shoes can be formed from components adapted to be joined together by machine stitching operations. While such prior suggestions have afforded certain advantages, they have also presented certain disadvantages.

In the formation of moccasin-type shoes which can be fabricated by machine stitching operations, it is recognized that it is preferable to use a blank for forming an upper and sole portion, which blank includes a pair of connected elongated segments symmetrical about the medial transverse axis of the blank. The segments include toe, shank, and heel portions constituting respectively opposite sections of the toe, shank, and heel portions of the upper and sole portion of the final moccasin formed by the blank. The plug or front top section of the toe area of the final moccasin can be easily stitched to the aforesaid blank, and a saddle can be easily applied thereover to yield the desired functional construction, as well as an attractive appearance. Moreover, conventional insoles, outsoles, backstays, stitfeners, and the like, can be easily secured to a formed blank such as described supra, to provide the final product,

Consistent with the foregoing, and in an attempt to present an easily constructed moccasin, it has been suggested that the blank be formed with bottom edges having a particular shape which permits the inward folding of the bottom portions of the blank to bring the bottom edges into abutting contact along a seam extending longitudinally of the moccasin formed thereby from the tip of the toe to the extremity of the heel. Such a construction allows for the insertion of the plug, or joining of the plug to the blank, and the subsequent joining of the bottom edges of the blank along the sole seam without causing any puckering or shirring with reconciliation of unevenness of adjacent or mating edge portions. However, such a construction is inherently subject to certain limitations with respect to shaping.

In particular, with a formation or construction of the type discussed in the immediately preceding paragraph, it is difficult if not impossible in most instances to bring the upper close and snug to the last for subsequent operations thereon. Any adjustment in shaping must be accomplished by shrinkage, as opposed to positive forming, due to the fixed relation of the components established by the longitudinal sole seam incorporated in such a construction which extends from the toe throughout the sole to the heel. And, even where some provision is made for adjustment in shaping, the same is woefully inadequate with specific regard to proper toe lasting and toe lasting control. More particularly, constructions in accordance with the above fail to make adequate, if any, provision for manipulation of the upper upon the last subsequent to insertion of the last within the upper.

Thus, constructions in accordance with the above suggestions provide little, if any, flexibility for the upper,

whereby the upper is capable of positioning itself upon and shaping itself with respect to the last during lasting operations. And, it is impossible, in prior constructions, to control pulling the upper over the last and to provide proper toe lasting, whereby straightness, proper height and proper positioning of the toe are insured.

From the foregoing discussion, it should be appreciated that although the particular type of moccasin construction discussed above affords substantial advantage from the production standpoint, it is inherently subject to certain limitations as to proper toe lasting and toe lasting control, and these limitations tend to olfset and overcome the possible advantages. Thus, there remains a need for a moccasin construction which aifords the advantages discussed but is not subject to the limitations of prior suggestions.

A primary object of the present invention, therefore, is to satisfy the aforesaid need, and provide a moccasin incorporating components which can be machine sewn into fixed relation with one another, but in such a manner as to permit unusual toe lasting control, whereby straightness, proper height and proper positioning of the toe are insured. More specifically, it is a primary object of the primary invention to provide, in a moccasin, an upper and sole portion comprising a blank including a pair of connected elongated segments symmetrical about the medial transverse axis of the blank, which segments include toe, shank, and heel portions constituting respectively opposite sections of the toe, shank and heel portions of the upper and sole portions, and which segments are so shaped that when joined together by machine, they provide a sole portion having a plurality of openings therewithin, at least one of which provides an unusual degree of control in pulling the upper and sole blank over a last and provides extremely eflicient and proper toe lasting, whereby straightness, proper positioning and proper height of the toe are insured, and at least an other of which openings provides extreme flexibility of the upper for positioning itself within and with respect to the last during lasting operations. Of course, consistent with this primary and most significant object, the present invention contemplates the provision of an upper and sole portion as aforesaid, which is readily adapted to receive and have attached thereto a plug comprising a cover shield or plate for the toe section or portion of the ultimate moccasin, a backstay, an insole, an outsole, a heel, and suitable pads and stiifeners which complete the mocassin as constructed in accordance with this invention and provides a piece of footwear which is attractive in appearance, capable of inexpensive and yet eflicient fabrication, and durable in use.

The invention lies in the combination, construction, and arrangement of the various component parts of a shoe constructed in accordance herewith, or more particularly of an upper and sole portion for a moccasin constructed in accordance herewith. The invention will be better understood, and objects other than those spe-' cifically set forth above will become apparent, when consideration is given to the following detailed description. Such description refers to the annexed drawings present ing a preferred and illustrative embodiment of the invention. In the drawings:

FIGURE 1 is a plan view of the preferred form of primary or main blank used in accordance with the present invention for formation of a moccasin constructed in accordance herewith;

FIGURE 2 is a plan view of a rear side section adapted to be attached to the blank of FIGURE 1, whereby to complete the primary blank and form the same into a pair of connected elongated segments symmetrical about the medial transverse axis thereof;

FIGURE 3 is a plan view of a backstay adapted to be stitched in position in interior relationship with respect to the heel wall of a moccasin constructed in accordance herewith;

FIGURE 4 is a plan view of a plug blank adapted to be stitched to a primary blank constructed in accordance herewith so as to form the cover shield or plate for the toe section or portion of the ultimate moccasin;

FIGURE 5 is a plan view of a binding strip adapted to be used in completing a moccasin constructed in accordance herewith;

FIGURE 6 is a plan view of a shank and heel stiffener used to provide substantial support in the shank and heel portion of a finished moccasin constructed in accordance with the instant development;

FIGURE 7 is a plan view of a plug blank forming a toe plate for the toe portion or section of the sole of a finished moccasin constructed in accordance with the instant development;

FIGURE 8 is a perspective view of a finished moccasin constructed in accordance with the present invention;

FIGURE 9 is a perspective view, partially broken away, and partially in section, of the moccasin shown in FIG- URE 8, FIGURE 9 presenting preferred details of construction;

FIGURE 10 is a sectional view taken on the line 10-10 of FIGURE 8 and presenting the details of construction in the heel wall or portion of a moccasin constructed in accordance herewith;

FIGURE 11 is a fragmental detailed view of the heel wall of a moccasin constructed in accordance herewith, FIGURE 11 showing the preferred disposition and coupling of the backstay to the heel edges of each of the elongated symmetrical segments of a primary or main blank used in accordance with this invention;

FIGURE 12 is a perspective view of an upper and sole portion formed in accordance herewith, and turned on its side, all prior to completion of lasting operations, and;

FIGURE 13 is a perspective view of an upper and sole portion formed in accordance herewith, and turned on its side, but subsequent to lasting operations.

It is to be understood at the outset of this detailed description that the invention lies in the formation of an upper and sole portion of a moccasin from a blank comprising a pair of connected symmetrical elongated segments, whether integral with respect to one another or provided by separate parts. The manner in which this invention is applied to a completed shoe is set forth hereinbelow, but the details of the particular sole, particular backstay, particular binding, and the like, are discussed primarily for purposes of completeness and facilitating an understanding of the instant development, and not to limit the application of this invention to particular forms of these more or less conventional elements.

Reference is now made more specifically to the drawings for purposes of explaining the detailed aspects of the instant development Now, referring more specifically to the invention itself, initially it is to be understood that the blank shown in FIGURE 2 forms what may be deemed an end section or a rear side section of the completed moccasin, the latter being generally designated by the reference character 10, as in FIGURE 8. This blank is designated by the reference character 12, and the ultimate position thereof will best be appreciated by reference to FIGURE 8. Initially, however, the blank 12 has the edge 14 thereof sewn, as by stitching, to the edge 16 of the primary blank shown in FIGURE 1, the said primary blank being generally designated in that figure by the reference character 2. Preferably, the edge 14 is disposed in underlying relation to the edge 16 and a double line of stitches such as shown at 18 in FIGURE 8 is used for joining the edge 14 to the edge 16. Once this initial operation is complete, the blank provided hereby for forming an upper and sole portion of a moccasin, generally designated by the reference character 2, as indicated supra, is symmetrical about the medial transverse axis A-A thereof.

Specifically, the blank 2 comprises a pair of connected elongated symmetrical segments generally designated by the reference characters 20 and 22. The segment 20 preferably is formed integrally and as a one-piece unit with the forward end portion of the segment 22. The blank 12 of FIGURE 2 is coupled with such integral onepiece unit, as shown in phantom in FIGURE 1, and thus completes the segment 22 so that the segments 20 and 22 are symmetrical about the axis A-A. The blank 12 forming the end section or rear side section is provided with suitable score lines 24, which score lines are particularly adapted to be positioned along or in alignment with the edge 16 of the elongated segment 22, whereby to predetermine and facilitate exact positioning of the end section 12 with respect to the segment 22.

As explained more fully below, each of the elongated symmetrical segments 20 and 22 includes a toe, shank, and heel portion constituting respectively opposite sections of the toe, shank, and heel portions of the upper and sole portion of the ultimate moccasin 10. Each segment 20 and 22 is of a full length of the moccasin to be formed and terminates at a heel edge 26.

The medial longitudinal axis LL through each of the symmetrical segments 20 and 22 is disposed at an acute angle with respect to the medial transverse axis A-A. The acute angle is designated, in FIGURE 1, by the reference character It will be noted that the angle is appreciably less than and preferably is of the order of or is approximately equal to 45. This angular relationship between the medial transverse axis AA of the primary blank 2 and the medial longitudinal axis LL thereof holds true regardless of the size of the moccasin 10 being fabricated. By virtue of the aforesaid symmetry between the elongated segments 20 and 22, the description of the elongated segment 20 corresponds substantially identically with any description that can be made of the elongated segment 22, as far as general contour is concerned, and thus, for purposes of simplicity, the contour of the segment 20 only is described hereinbelow. Therefore, similar reference characters are used to indicate similar parts of each of the elongated symmetrical segments 20 and 22 throughout, with the exception that the reference characters applied to the parts of the segment 22 are primed.

The upper elongated edge of the segment 20, generally designated by the reference character 28, has two edge portions 30 and 32. The edge portion 30 is of a concave contour and extends from the medial transverse axis A-A of the primary blank 2 along the toe portion of the segment 20, that is, along that portion of the elongated segment 20 which will ultimately form the toe portion or section of the finished moccasin 10. The other edge portion 32 of the edge 39 is of linear contour and extends across the shank and heel portions or sections of the elongated segment 20 to the heel edge 26 thereof. The edge portion 32 is, as indicated just supra, preferably of linear contour or configuration and is offset inwardly from the edge portion 30. The term offset, as used in this specification, and the appended claims, refers to an interruption in continuous contour. Thus, the edge portion 32 can be regarded as inwardly offset from the edge portion 30, inwardly offset meaning disposed closer at the junction between the edge portions 30 and 32 to the medial longitudinal axis LL.

The peripheral longitudinal axis L'L, which axis lies in the same plane or is conjoined with the edge portion 32, is disposed at an acute angle The angle 1p, as shown in FIGURE 1, is less than the acute angle r11 formed between the medial longitudinal axis LL of the elongated segment 20 and the medial transverse axis A-A of the primary blank 2. This angle (p remains substantially constant regardless of the size of the moccasin 10 being fabricated, as indicated supra with respect to the angle And, although the edge portion 32 is preferably of linear contour or configuration, the same may be slightly concave.

The elongated symmetrical segment 20 has an other edge, generally designated by the reference character 34, which other edge is oppositely disposed with respect to the edge 28. The edge 34 which comprises a lower edge of the primary blank 2 since, as just pointed out, the same is oppositely disposed with respect to the edge 28, has an edge portion 36 which extends substantially completely of the heel and shank portion of the segment 21). That is, the edge portion 36 extends from the heel edge 26 to a point substantially transversely in alignment with the juncture between the edge portions 30 and 32 of the upper edge 28. The edge 34 has an other edge portion 38, preferably of gently convex configuration and acutely angularly disposed with respect to the edge portion 36, which other edge portion extends from the medial transverse axis A-A of the primary blank partially along the toe portion of the elongated segment 26). Positioned between the edge portions 36 and 38 of the lower edge 34, and extending outwardly therefrom, that is, in a direction extending outwardly or away from the medial longitudinal axis LL, is a plurality of projections or tabs. A first one of said projections or tabs, designated by the reference character 40, is positioned substantially adjacent and connected to an end 44 of the edge portion 36 opposite the end thereof connected to the heel edge 26. This projection or tab 40 has a peripheral edge 46 which is particularly adapted to be stitched to the peripheral edge 46' of the projection or tab 40' of the elongated segment 22. And, to facilitate folding of the projections or tabs 4d and 40 whereby the same can be stitched together, the end 44 of the edge portion 36 is cut at an angle with respect to the peripheral edge 48 of the projection or tab 40, thereby providing a slit, as clearly illustrated in FIGURE 1. And, as clearly illustrated in that figure, the projection or tab 40 is preferably of generally rectangular configuration, whereby the peripheral edge 46 thereof is in substantially parallel relationship with respect to the edge portion 36. And, therefore, the peripheral edge 48 of the projection or tab 40 is disposed substantially at right angles with respect to the edge portion 36. As opposed to the projection or tab 40, the projection or tab 42 is preferably of trapezoidal configuration and comprises a peripheral edge 50 which is acutely angularly disposed with respect to the peripheral edge 46 of the projection or tab 4% and a peripheral edge 52 which is acutely angularly disposed with respect to the peripheral edge 48 of the projection or tab 40. Since, as pointed out supra, the projection or tab 49 is preferably of substantially rectangular configuration, the peripheral edge 48 thereof is substantially parallel to a peripheral edge 54 thereof. And, since the peripheral edge 52 of the projection or tab 5% is acutely angularly disposed with respect to the peripheral edge 43 of the projection or tab 40, the same is acutely angularly disposed with respect to the peripheral edge 54. This relationship between the peripheral edges 52 and 54 is clearly illustrated in FIGURE 1, as a result of which, there is provided a substantially triangular shaped recess 56 between the projections 40 and 42. As is the case with the peripheral edge 46 and 46 of the projection or tab 40 and 40', respectively, indicated supra, the peripheral edge 51 of the projection or tab 42 is particularly adapted to be stitched to the peripheral edge 5d of the projection or tab 42'. And, when the projections or tabs 49 and 46 and the projections or tabs 42 and 42 are stitched together, the triangular shaped recesses 56 and 56 will form an aperture or opening, generally designated by the reference character 58 in FIGURE 12, which aperture or opening is preferably of generally elliptical configuration. This one or first opening or aperture 58 provides great flexibility in pulling the upper and sole portion of the moccasin over a last, which will be described more fully hereinafter.

As indicated supra, the projection or tab 42 is preferably of generally trapezoidal configuration and further comprises a peripheral edge 64), which peripheral edge 60 is obtusely angularly disposed with respect to the peripheral edge 50 of the projection or tab 42 and obtusely angularly disposed with respect to the edge portion 38. To facilitate folding of the projections or tabs 42 and 42', whereby the same may be stitched together, the end 62 of the edge portion 38 is cut at an angle with respect to the peripheral edge 60, thereby providing a slit between the peripheral edge 60 and the end 62. The edge portion 38 comprises a recess 64, which recess extends inwardly of the edge 38, that is, in a direction disposed towards the edge portion 30 of the upper edge 2%. In accordance with this construction, therefore, when the projections or tabs 4% and 40 and the projections or tabs 42 and 42' are stitched together, not only is there provided the opening or aperture 58, but, additionally, there is provided an other or second aperture or opening, which other aperture is generally designated by the reference character 66 in FIGURE 12 The recesses 64 and 64', which are preferably of generally triangular configuration, facilitate folding of the sections of the edge portions 38 and 38 on either side of the recesses 64 and 64', respectively. The aperture or opening 66, in toto, provides an extreme degree of toe lasting control, in a manner to be fully described infra. The projections or tabs 42 and 42 are chamfered, as indicated at 67 and 67', respectively, to facilitate positioning and securing a toe plate with respect to the sole portion of the upper and sole from which the finished moccasin 19 is formed, as particularly described infra. The primary blank 2 may be provided with notches 63 for purposes of alignment.

As suggested supra, the foregoing description directed primarily to the elongated symmetrical segment 20 applies equally well to the contour of the symmetrical segment 22. Thus, the edge portions and sections of the segment 22 have been labeled with primed numerals as indicated supra, corresponding to those used to describe the edges of the segment 20. As will be readily appreciated by those of ordinary skill in the art, the prmary blank 2 as well as the blank 12 are formed of leather, and other suitable leather blanks, such as the binding blank '70, the backstay blank '72, the plug blank from which the cover plate or shield, generally designated by the reference character 74 is formed, and the plug blank, generally designated by the reference character 76, from which the toe plate is formed, are also formed from leather. The primary blank 2 may be provided, as is the blank 12, with score lines such as designated by the reference character '78 in FIGURE 1 to permit the ready folding and shaping thereof.

The edge portions 30 and 30' of the primary blank 2 are shaped to be joined with the generally pear-shaped forward edge of the plug 74. If desired, the plug 74 can be skived, as conventional, in spaced close parallel relation to the edge 82 so as to readily permit the joining between such edge and the edge portions 30 and 30'. This joining is carried out by means of stitches, or a machine stitching operation in a conventional manner, and the projecting edges which result after the stitching along the line 54, as shown in FIGURE 8, are hot-diemarked or scored so as to resemble hand stitching as at 86. A marking dart 88 or the like can be provided at the apex of the edge 32 of the plug 74 to permit ready and proper alignment of such apex with the medial transverse axis AA of the primary blank 2 as defined by the notches 68 positioned therealong, if desired. Such marking dart is conventional, and while the same may be employed at various locations to facilitate fabrication, merely these examples have been presented herein.

After the plug 74 has its edge 82 thereof joined to the edge portions 30 and 30' of the primary blank 2, then the winged flanges 90 and 92 thereof are stitched to the blank 2 in overlying relation to the areas shown in phantom in FIGURE 1 and designated by the reference characters 90 and 92. It will be observed that with the construction as joined in the manner described above, the material of the primary blank below the medial longitudinal axis LL of the elongated symmetrical segments 20 and 22 thereof, when folded at the center, provides upstanding side walls, generally designated by the reference characters 94 and 96 as shown in FIGURES 8 and 9, which upstanding side walls extend for the full length of the finished moccasin 10. These walls support at the forward end thereof the plug 74 in substantially horizontal position, which plug forms or comprises a cover plate or shield for the toe of the finished moccasin 10. The plug 74, as is clearly illustrated in FIGURE 4, is provided with score lines 98, whereby a saddle, generally designated by the reference character 3, may be properly aligned in position upon and with respect to the cover plate or shield 74.

Prior to performing the stitching operation whereby the edge 82 of the plug 74 is joined with the edge portions 30 and 30 of the primary blank 2, the edges may be provided, as conventional, with a suitable cement. Moreover, the stitches used are of conventional machine type having loops thereof which pierce from the plug to the vamp or blank in spaced relation to the edges so as to provide a raised ridge and a smooth interior joint.

It is this raised ridge which is scored or hot-diemarked and designated by the reference character 86 in FIGURE 8.

After performing the preceding operations, the heel edges 26 and 26' are brought into abutting contact, and a row of suitable stitching, as indicated by the dotted line 5 in FIGURE or a double row thereof, is used to join the heel edge 26 with the heel edge 26 in abutting relation. Of course, the respective edges are coextensive, in accordance with conventional practice. After performing this operation, the backstay blank 72 is stitched in underlying relation to the heel seam 5 formed by joining of the respective heel edges 26 and 26. This blank 72 is illustrated as being stitched in position by means of stitches 7 in FIGURE 10. Upon completion of this operation, the binding strip blank 70 is folded over the top edge portions 32 and 32 as shown in FIGURES 8 and 9, and stitched in position in conventional manner by means of the line of stitching 9. Thereupon, a suitable saddle such as designated by the reference character 3 in FIGURE 8, as indicated supra, is fixed across the plug 74 in conventional position, and secured in place by means of stitches designated by the reference character 11, the proper position of the saddle 3 upon and with respect to the plug blank '74- being predetermined by the score lines 98, as indicated supra.

The series of steps described supra completes the upper, and can be easily performed by machine stitching, as should be readily apparent to those skilled in the art. After such formation, the slip-lasting operation is performed to shape the moccasin top and to bring certain lower edge portions into either abutting or spaced rela-' tionship. More specifically, during the slip-lasting operation, the projections or tabs 49 and 40 and 5t) and 59' are folded inwardly, that is, towards one another and the peripheral edges 46 and 50 brought into abutting contact with the peripheral edges 46 and 50'. By virtue of this abutting relationship between the projections or tabs 40 and 42 and 40 and 4-2, there is formed a seam, generally designated by the reference character 13, which seam, as shown in FIGURE 13, extends medially and longitudinally of the sole portion of the formed blank, which sole portion is designated by the reference character 19 in that figure. Now, it is particularly important to note that the seam 13 comprises a first seam segment 15 which extends completely longitudinally of the peripheral edges 45 and 46 of the projections or tabs 40 and 40, respectively, when those peripheral edges are brought into the abutting relationship described supra. And, the

seam 13 further comprises an other or second seam segment 17, which other seam segment extends completely longitudinally of the peripheral edges 50 and 50' of the projections 42 and 42, respectively, which peripheral edges are brought into abutting contact as described supra. Stated in other words, the seam 13 can be described as being discontinuous, which discontinuity is caused by the aperture or opening 58 resulting from the provision of the triangular shape recesses 56 and 56'. In addition, it is particularly important to note that the second seam segment 17 does not extend completely medially longitudinally of the sole 19 of the finished moccasin to the toe thereof, the toe being designated by the reference character 21 in FIGURE 13. That is, though the peripheral edges 50 and 50' are brought into abutting contact with one another, as described supra, the edge portions 38 and 38 are not brought into abutting contact with respect to one another. Thus, as described supra, there is provided the second or other aperture 66, which other aperture is positioned substantially adjacent the toe 21 of the sole 19. And, as also indicated supra, during the initial portions of the lasting operation, the first aperture 58 is substantially of elliptical configuration, as shown in FIGURE 12, and the second aperture 66 takes the form or configuration as also illustrated in that figure. Moreover, the edge portions 34 and 34' are not brought into abutting contact with respect to one another, as opposed to the peripheral edges 46 and 46', and the peripheral edges 50 and 50'. However, the peripheral edges 46 and 46' and the peripheral edges 50 and 50', when brought into abutting contact, are secured together by means of zig-zag stitches 23, as illustrated in FIGURE 12. Thus, a discontinuous fixed seam 13 ex tends along the sole portion 19 from a point or position near or substantially adjacent the tip of the toe 21 to a point or position 25 between the ends of the shank portion of the blank, or the ultimate shoe 10.

As previously indicated, folding of the blank as described just supra and formation of the fixed discontinuous seam 13 by the stitches 23 is facilitated by provision of the ends 44 and 44' of the edge portions 34 and 34, respectively, which ends are angularly disposed with respect to the peripheral edges 48 and 48 of the projections and 40, respectively. And, as a result of the above-described folding operation and formation of the seam 13, there is provided, in addition to the first aperture 58 and the second aperture 66, a still further or other or third aperture or opening generally designated by the reference character 27, in FIGURE 13, which aperture or opening is axially aligned with the fixed discontinuous seam 13. The opening or aperture 27 is comprised of a forward end 29 of substantially conical configuration, a central section 31 of substantially rectangular configuration and a heel section 33 of substantially elongated annular configuration. The annular heel section 33 is in the heel portion of the formed blank, and the generally rectangular section is in the shank portion of the formed blank.

While it is important to realize that the opening or aperture 27 is of substantially less width than the sole portion and is essential to proper shaping because it permits bringing the formed blank into close and snug contact with the last for the lasting operations, it is of the utmost importance and it is to be recognized that the essence of he invention lies in forming the blank with the openings or apertures 58 and 66. Thus, during the lasting operation, it is necessary that great flexibility be provided for the upper and sole to position itself with respect to the last. In this connection, there is provided the first opening or aperture 58 which, as indicated supra, initially takes the form illustrated in FIGURE 12, which initial form is of substantially elliptical configuration. As the lasting operation proceeds, this first aperture 58 takes the form of an elongated relatively narrow or slashed aperture or opening. And, as indicated just supra, during this lasting operation, the aperture 58 provides great flexibility in permitting or allowing the upper and sole to position itself with respect to the last. In addition, it is necessary that an aperture or opening be provided for proper toe lasting and toe lasting control. This is required in order to insure straightness and proper height. In this connection, the second or other aperture 66 is provided, whereby, during the lasting operation, an extreme degree of manipulation of the upper and sole is provided, whereby proper height, s'traightness and proper positioning of the toe are achieved. As indicated supra, therefore, the essence of this invention lies in forming the blank from which the upper and sole is fabricated with these apertures 58 and 66; in other words, because it is the apertures or openings 58 and 66 which overcome the problems heretofore faced by prior workers in the art attempting to provide a machine stitched moccasin type shoe.

The remainder of the components of the finished shoe or moccasin iii are secured to the formed blank providing an upper and sole portion as described above, in any suitable conventional manner. Preferably, a shank and heel stiffener 35, of wood or other suitable material, is disposed in underlying or interior relationship with respect to the sole portion 19 of the formed primary blank 2. That is, as clearly illustrated in FIGURES l and 11, the sole portion 19 of the formed primary blank 2 is disposed in underlying relationship with respect to the heel and shank stiffener 35, and is, therefore, interposed between the heel and shank stiffener and an outsole 37. The heel and shank stiffener 35 may be secured with respect to the edges 34 and 34' in any suitable manner, and preferably, is secured thereto by a plurality or series of suitable nails or tacks 39, as clearly illustrated in FIG- URE 13. However, the tacks or nails 39 do not extend completely peripherally of the edges 34 and 34', and, therefore, to complete securing the heel and shank stiffener 35 with respect to these edges, a suitable cement can be used. One surface of the heel and shank stiffener 35 preferably is chamfered or otherwise suitably configured, as indicated at 41, whereby the stiffener will assume a relatively flat or flush relationship with respect to that portion of the shank disposed substantially adjacent the toe of the sole portion 19 of the primary blank 2. Moreover, the outsole 37 preferably carries a heel such as 43, and the formed blank has stitched therein an insole such as designated by the numeral 45. The stitching extends peripherally in adjacent spaced relation to the edges of the sole portion 19, as is conventional. The ultimate product, moreover, may further comprise, if desired, a sock lining (not shown) in overlying relationship to the insole 45.

To complete fabrication or formation of the toe of the sole portion 19, the plug blank 76, illustrated in FIGURE 7, comprising a toe plate, is secured to the toe of the sole portion in any suitable manner. Preferably, the plug blank 76, the configuration of which is substantially similar to that of a mushroom, comprises a forward end 47 and a rearwardly disposed end 49. The forward end 47 is particularly adapted to be disposed inunderlying or interior relationship with respect to the edge portions 33 and 38 positioned substantially immediately adjacent the medial transverse axis AA of the primary blank 2. This particular relationship is illustrated in FIGURE 9. The rearwardly disposed end 49 of the plug blank 76 is particularly adapted to be disposed in overlying relationship with respect to the edge portions 38 and 38 positioned furthest from the medial transverse axis AA, that is, the edge portions 38 and 38' positioned on the far side of the recesses 64 and 64 with respect to the medial transverse axis. This particular relationship of the forward end 47 and the rearwardly disposed end 19 with respect to the edge portions 38 and 38' is facilitated by the mushroom shape of the plug blank 76, such mushroom shape providing the inwardly disposed offsets 51. Since the rearwardly disposed end 49 of the plug blank 76 is disposed in overlying relationship with respect to the edge portions 38 and 38', as described just supra, the end 49 is interposed between the sole portion 19 of the formed blank, and the outsole 37. This particular relationship of the plug blank 76 with respect to the sole 19 is, in addition to being illustrated in FIGURE 9, particularly illustrated in FIGURE 13. Also illustrated in that figure is completion of the folding operation of the edge portions 38 and 38' with respect to the plug blank. The folding operation is facilitated by the angular cut of the ends 62 and 62' of the edge portions 38 and 38', respectively, as described supra in conjunction with the ends 44 and 44'. On completion of the folding operation of the edge portions 38 and 38', the same may be secured with respect to the plug blank 76 in any suitable manner. Preferably a suitable cement is used.

The particular manner of securing the outsole in place, subsequent to the folding operation just described, the insole in place, and the use of a sock lining are conventional, and the final formation of the shoe or moccasin 10 from an upper and sole portion constructed in accordance herewith can be accomplished, as suggested, in accordance with well-known techniques. Further discussion thereof appears unnecessary.

It should be noted, however, that all of the sewing op erations can be performed before slip-lasting and without preliminary heel lasting and toe lasting. Thus, by virtue of the provision of the construction provided hereby, a machine sewn moccasin type shoe can easily be fabricated, and can be readily shaped and adjusted during the lasting operations. There is no need to rely upon shrinkage for adjustment, especially by virtue of the provision of the apertures or openings 58 and 66, the first of which provides for unusual flexibility in positioning the upper and sole portion with respect to the last, and the latter of which provides for an extreme degree of toe lasting and toe lasting control, whereby straightness, proper height and proper positioning of the toe are insured, and therefore a superior quality final product can be obtained. After reading the foregoing detailed description, it should be appreciated that the objects set forth at the outset of the present specification have been successfully achieved. Accordingly, what is claimed is:

1. In a moccasin, an upper and sole portion comprising a blank including a pair of integrally connected elongated segments symmetrical about a medial transverse axis of said blank, each of said segments having toe, shank and heel portions constituting, respectively, oppositely disposed sections of the toe, shank and heel portions of said upper and sole portion, each of said elongated symmetrical segments being of a full length of a moccasin to be formed and terminating in a heel edge, each of said elongated symmetrical segments having a medial longitudinal axis being angularly disposed at an acute angle :15 with respect to said medial transverse axis of appreciably less than and of the order of 45 without regard to the size of a moccasin to be formed from said blank, each of said elongated symmetrical segments having one elongated edge, said one edge comprising one edge portion of concave configuration and extending from said medial transverse axis along the toe portion of said segment, and an other edge portion of linear configuration and extending along the shank and heel portion of said segment and terminating at the heel edge thereof, said other edge portion being inwardly offset of said one edge portion of said one elongated edge and having a peripheral longitudinal axis angularly disposed at an acute angle with respect to said medial transverse axis without regard to the size of a moccasin to be formed from said blank, said acute angle being of less angular extent than said acute angle each of said elongated symmetrical segments having an other elongated edge oppositely disposed with respect to said one elongated edge, said other elongated edge comprising one edge portion of gently convex configuration and extending from said medial transverse axis partially along the toe portion of said elongated segment, an other edge portion of substantially linear configuration and extending along the shank and heel portions of said segment and terminating at the heel edge thereof, said one and said other edge portions of said other elongated edge being acutely angularly disposed with respect to one another, a first substantially rectangularly configured projection positioned substantially adjacent and connected to an end of said other edge portion opposite the end thereof connected to the heel edge of said elongated segment, said first projection having at least one peripheral edge disposed in substantially parallel relationship with respect to the other edge portion of said other elongated edge and at least an other peripheral edge disposed substantially at right angles with respect to said other edge portion, and an other substantially trapezoidally configured projection positioned substantially adjacent and connected to said one edge portion at an end opposite an other end thereof disposed along said medial transverse axis, said other projection having at least one peripheral edge acutely angularly disposed with respect to said one peripheral edge of the first projection and at least an other edge acutely angularly disposed with respect to the other peripheral edge thereof, the acute angular disposition of the other peripheral edge of said first projection with respect to the other peripheral edge of said other projection defining a substantially triangularly configured recess between said projections, said one and said other projections extending outwardly of the edge portions of said other elongated edge, the one edge portion of said other elongated edge of each of said elongated symmetrical segments having an inwardly disposed substantially triangularly shaped recess, said blank being folded with said one peripheral edge of each of said first projections and said one peripheral edge of each of said other projections in abutting relationship with respect to one another, the abutting relationship of said one and said other projections defining a fixed discontinuous sole seam extending medially and longitudinally of said folded blank from a position near the toe of said blank as defined by said medial transverse axis to said shank portion, the discontinuity of said sole seam being defined by the triangularly configured recess between said first and said other projections and providing a first aperture positioned along the toe portion of the sole of the blank as folded and substantially adjacent the shank thereof, said one edge portion of each of the oppositely disposed elongated edges defining, in said blank as folded, an other aperture positioned along the toe portion of the sole of the blank as folded and substantially adjacent the toe thereof as defined by said medial transverse axis, said heel edges being positioned in abutting relationship with respect to one another along a heel seam, said blank being stitched along said discontinuous sole seam and said heel seam to maintain said blank as folded, the other edge portions of each of said oppositely disposed elongated edges defining, in said blank as folded, still an other aperture axially aligned with said discontinuous sole seam and having a means width substantially less than the mean width of the sole portion of said blank, said lastmentioned aperture having a forward end of substantially conical configuration, a central section of substantially rectangular configuration positioned along the shank portion of the sole of the blank as folded, and a heel section of substantially elongated annular configuration positioned along the heel portion of the sole of the blank as folded.

2. In a moccasin, an upper and sole portion comprising a blank including a pair of connected elongated segments symmetrical about a medial transverse axis of said blank, each of said segments having toe, shank and heel portions constituting, respectively, oppositely disposed sections of the toe, shank, and heel portions of said upper and sole portion, each of said elongated symmetrical segments being of a full length of a moccasin to be formed, each of Cir said elongated symmetrical segments having a medial longitudinal axis being angularly disposed at an acute angle at with respect to said medial transverse axis of appreciably less than without regard to the size of a moccasin to be formed from said blank, each of said elongated symmetrical segments having one elongated edge, said one edge comprising one edge portion extending from said medial transverse axis along the toe portion of said segment, and an other edge portion extending along the shank and heel portion of said segment, each of said elongated symmetrical segments having an other elongated edge oppositely disposed with respect to said one elongated edge, said other elongated edge comprising one edge portion extending from said medial transverse axis partially along the toe portion of said elongated segment, an other edge portion extending along the shank and heel portions of said segment, said one and said other edge portions of said other elongated edge being angularly disposed with respect to one another, a first projection positioned substantially adjacent and connected to said other edge portion, said first projection having at least one peripheral edge and at least an other peripheral edge, and an other projection positioned substantially adjacent and connected to said one edge portion, said other projection having at least one peripheral edge and at least an other peripheral edge, the other peripheral edge of each of said one and said other projections being angularly disposed with respect to one another defining a recess positioned between said one and said other projection, said one and said other projections extending outwardly of the edge portions of said other elongated edge, the one edge portion of said other elongated edge of each of said elongated symmetrical segments having an inwardly disposed recess, said blank being folded with said one peripheral edge of each of said first projections and said one peripheral edge of each of said other projections in abutting relationship with respect to one another, the abutting relationship of said one and said other projections defining a discontinuous sole seam extending medially and longitudinally of said folded blank from a position near the toe of said blank as defined by said medial transverse axis to said shank portion, the discontinuity of said sole seam being defined by the recess between said first and said other projections and providing a first aperture positioned along the toe portion of the sole of the blank as folded and substantially adjacent the shank thereof, said one edge portion of each of the oppositely disposed elongated edges defining, in said blank as folded, an other aperture positioned along the toe portion of the sole of the blank as folded and substantially adjacent the toe thereof as defined by said medial transverse axis, said blank being stitched along said discontinuous sole scam, the other edge portions of each of said oppositely disposed elongated edges defining, in said blank as folded, still an other aperture axially aligned with said discontinuous sole seam and having a mean width substantially less than the mean width of the sole portion of said blank.

3. In a moccasin, an upper and sole portion as defined in claim 2, wherein said still other aperture comprises a forward end of substantially conical configuration, a central section of substantially rectangular configuration positioned along the shank portion of the sole of the blank as folded, and a heel section of substantially elongated annular configuration positioned along the heel portion of the sole of the blank as folded.

4. In a moccasin, an upper and sole portion as defined in claim 3, wherein each of said elongated symmetrical segments terminates in a heel edge, said heel edges being positioned in abutting relationship with respect to one another along a heel seam and said blank being stitched along said heel seam to maintain said blank as folded, a backstay stitched to said elongated symmetrical segments in interior relationship with respect to said heel seam, and a plug stitched to said elongated symmetrical segments along said one edge portion of said one elongated edge thereof, said plug providing a cover plate for a moccasin to be formed from said blank.

5. In a moccasin, an upper and sole portion as defined in claim 4, wherein one of said elongated symmetrical segments comprises two connected separate pieces.

6. In a moccasin, an upper and sole portion as defined in claim 5, wherein a plug is secured With respect to said one edge portion of the other elongated edge of each of said elongated symmetrical segments, said plug comprising a forward end secured and disposed in interior relationship with respect to said one edge portions extending from said medial transverse axis to the inwardly disposed recess positioned therealong and a rearwardly disposed end secured and positioned in overlying relationship with respect to said one edge portions extending from said recess positioned therealong to said other projections connected thereto, said plug providing a toe plate for the toe portion of the sole of said blank as formed and being secured with respect to said one edge portions defining said other aperture in the toe of the sole of said blank.

7. In a moccasin, an upper and sole portion as defined in claim 6, wherein a heel and shank stiffener is secured and is disposed in underlying relationship with respect to said other edge portion of the other elongated edge of each of said elongated symmetrical segments defining the still other aperture in the sole portion of the blank as formed.

8. In combination, a moccasin comprising an upper and sole portion comprising, in turn, a blank including a pair of connected elongated segments symmetrical about a medial transverse axis of said blank, at least one of said elongated symmetrical segments being comprised of two connected separate pieces, each of said segments having toe, shank and heel portions constituting, respectively, oppositely disposed sections of the toe, shank and heel portions of said upper and sole portion, each of said elongated symmetrical segments being of a full length of a moccasin to be formed and terminating in a heel edge, each of said elongated symmetrical segments having a medial longitudinal axis being angularly disposed at an acute angle p with respect to said medial transverse axis of appreciably less than 90 without regard to the size of a moccasin to be formed from said blank, each of said elongated symmetrical segments haivng one elongated edge, said one edge comprising one edge portion extending from said medial transverse axis along the toe portion of said segments, and an other edge portion extending along the shank and heel portion of said segment and terminating at the heel edge thereof, each of said elongated symmetrical segments having an other elongated edge oppositely disposed with respect to said one elongated edge, said other elongated edge comprising one edge portion extending from said medial transverse axis partially along the toe portion of said elongated segment, an other edge portion extending along the shank and heel portions of said segment and terminating at the heel edge thereof, said one and said other edge portions of said other elongated edge being angularly disposed with respect to one another, a first projection positioned substantially adjacent and connected to an end of said other edge portion opposite the end thereof connected to the heel edge of said elongated segment, said first projection having at least one peripheral edge and at least an other peripheral edge, and an other projection positioned substantially adjacent and connected to said one edge portion, said other projection having at least one peripheral edge and at least an other peripheral edge, the other peripheral edge of each of said one and said other projections being angularly disposed with respect to one another and defining a recess positioned between said one and said other projections, said one and said other projections extending outwardly of the edge portions of said other elongated edge, the one edge portion of said other elongated edge of each of said elongated symmetrical segments having an inwardly disposed recess, said blank being folded with said one peripheral edge of each of said first projections and said one peripheral edge of each of said other projections in abutting relationship with respect to one another, the abutting relationship of said one and said other projections defining a discontinuous sole seam extending medially and longitudinally of said folded blank from a position near the toe of said blank as defined by said medial trans verse axis to said shank portion, the discontinuity of said sole seam being defined by the recess between said first and said other projections and providing a first aperture positioned along the toe portion of the sole of the blank as folded and substantially adjacent the shank thereof, said one edge portion of each of the oppositely disposed elongated edges defining, in said blank as folded, an other aperture positioned along the toe portion of the sole of the blank as folded and substantially adjacent the toe thereof as defined by said medial transverse axis, said heel edges being positioned in abutting relationship with respect to one another along a heel seam, said blank being stitched along said discontinuous sole seam and said heel seam to maintain said blank as folded, the other edge portions of each of said oppositely disposed elongated edges defining, in said blank as folded, still another aperture axially aligned with said discontinuous sole seam and having a mean width substantially less than the mean width of the sole portion of said blank, said last-mentioned aperture having a forward end of substantially conical configuration, a central section of substantially rectangular configuration positioned along the shank portion of the sole of the blank as folded, and a heel section of substantially elongated annular configuration positioned along the heel portion of the sole of the blank as folded, a backstay stitched to each of said elongated symmetrical segments in interior relationship with respect to said heel seam, a plug stitched to each of said elongated symmetrical segments along said one edge portion of the one elongated edge thereof, said plug providing the cover plate of a moccasin to be formed from said blank, another plug secured with respect to said one edge portion of the other elongated edge of each of said elongated symmetrical segments, said other plug having a forward end secured and disposed in interior relationship with respect to said one edge portion extending from said medial transverse axis to the inwardly disposed recess positioned therealong and a rearwardly disposed end secured and positioned in overlying relationship with respect to said one edge portions extending from said recess positioned therealong to said other projection connected thereto, said other plug providing a toe plate for the toe portion of the sole of said blank as formed and being secured with respect to said one edge portions defining said other aperture in said toe of the sole of sand blank, and a heel and shank stiffener secured and disposed in underlying relationship with respect to said other edge portion of the other elongated edge of each of said elongated symmetrical segments defining the still other aperture in the sole portion of said blank as formed.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,195,825 Llewellyn Aug. 22, 1916 2,485,114 Sanchioni Oct. 18, 1949 2,757,396 Potvin Aug. 7, 1956 2,859,543 Potvin Nov. 11, 1958 2,900,743 Levine Aug. 25, 1959 2,984,918 Glassman May 23, 1961 3,050,876 Grossman Aug. 28, 1962 

2. IN A MOCCASIN, AN UPPER AND SOLE PORTION COMPRISING A BLANK INCLUDING A PAIR OF CONNECTED ELONGATED SEGMENTS SYMMETRICAL ABOUT A MEDIAL TRANSVERSE AXIS OF SAID BLANK, EACH OF SAID SEGMENTS HAVING TOE, SHANK AND HEEL PORTIONS CONSTITUTING, RESPECTIVELY, OPPOSITELY DISPOSED SECTIONS OF THE TOE, SHANK, AND HEEL PORTIONS OF SAID UPPER AND SOLE PORTION, EACH OF SAID ELONGATED SYMMETRICAL SEGMENTS BEING OF A FULL LENGTH OF A MOCCASIN TO BE FORMED, EACH OF SAID ELONGATED SYMMETRICAL SEGMENTS HAVING A MEDIAL LONGITUDINAL AXIS BEING ANGULARLY DISPOSED AT AN ACUTE ANGLE $ WITH RESPECT TO SAID MEDIAL TRANSVERSE AXIS OF APPRECIABLY LESS THAN 90* WITHOUT REGARD TO THE SIZE OF A MOCCASIN TO BE FORMED FROM SAID BLANK, EACH OF SAID ELONGATED SYMMETRICAL SEGMENTS HAVING ONE ELONGATED EDGE, SAID ONE EDGE COMPRISING ONE EDGE PORTION EXTENDING FROM SAID MEDIAL TRANSVERSE AXIS ALONG THE TOE PORTION OF SAID SEGMENT, AND AN OTHER EDGE PORTION EXTENDING ALONG THE SHANK AND HEEL PORTION OF SAID SEGMENT, EACH OF SAID ELONGATED SYMMETRICAL SEGMENTS HAVING AN OTHER ELONGATED EDGE OPPOSITELY DISPOSED WITH RESPECT TO SAID ONE ELONGATED EDGE, SAID OTHER ELONGATED EDGE COMPRISING ONE EDGE PORTION EXTENDING FROM SAID MEDIAL TRANSVERSE AXIS PARTIALLY ALONG THE TOE PORTION OF SAID ELONGATED SEGMENT, AN OTHER EDGE PORTION EXTENDING ALONG THE SHANK AND HEEL PORTIONS OF SAID SEGMENT, SAID ONE AND SAID OTHER EDGE PORTIONS OF SAID OTHER ELONGATED EDGE BEING ANGULARLY DISPOSED WITH RESPECT TO ONE ANOTHER, A FIRST PROJECTION POSITIONED SUBSTANTIALLY ADJACENT AND CONNECTED TO SAID OTHER EDGE PORTION, SAID FIRST PROJECTION HAVING AT LEAST ONE PERIPHERAL EDGE AND AT LEAST AN OTHER PERIPHERAL EDGE, AND AN OTHER PROJECTION POSITIONED SUBSTANTIALLY ADJACENT AND CONNECTED TO SAID ONE EDGE PORTION, SAID OTHER PROJECTION HAVING AT LEAST ONE PERIPHERAL EDGE AND AT LEAST AN OTHER PERIPHERAL EDGE, THE OTHER PERIPHERAL EDGE OF EACH OF SAID ONE AND SAID OTHER PROJECTIONS BEING ANGULARLY DISPOSED WITH RESPECT TO ONE ANOTHER DEFINING A RECESS POSITIONED BETWEEN SAID ONE AND SAID OTHER PROJECTION, SAID ONE AND SAID OTHER PROJECTIONS EXTENDING OUTWARDLY OF THE EDGE PORTIONS OF SAID OTHER ELONGATED EDGE, THE ONE EDGE PORTION OF SAID OTHER ELONGATED EDGE OF EACH OF SAID ELONGATED SYMMETRICAL SEGMENTS HAVING AN INWARDLY DISPOSED RECESS, SAID BLANK BEING FOLDED WITH SAID ONE PERIPHERAL EDGE OF EACH OF SAID FIRST PROJECTIONS AND SAID ONE PERIPHERAL EDGE OF EACH OF SAID OTHER PROJECTIONS IN ABUTTING RELATIONSHIP WITH RESPECT TO ONE ANOTHER, THE ABUTTING RELATIONSHIP OF SAID ONE AND SAID OTHER PROJECTIONS DEFINING A DISCONTINUOUS SOLE SEAM EXTENDING MEDIALLY AND LONGITUDINALLY OF SAID FOLDED BLANK FROM A POSITION NEAR THE TOE OF SAID BLANK AS DEFINED BY SAID MEDIAL TRANSVERSE AXIS TO SAID SHANK PORTION, THE DISCONTINUITY OF SAID SOLE SEAM BEING DEFINED BY THE RECESS BETWEEN SAID FIRST AND SAID OTHER PROJECTIONS AND PROVIDING A FIRST APERTURE POSITIONED ALONG THE TOE PORTION OF THE SOLE OF THE BLANK AS FOLDED AND SUBSTANTIALLY ADJACENT THE SHANK THEREOF, SAID ONE EDGE PORTION OF EACH OF THE OPPOSITELY DISPOSED ELONGATED EDGES DEFINING, IN SAID BLANK AS FOLDED, AN OTHER APERTURE POSITIONED ALONG THE TOE PORTION OF THE SOLE OF THE BLANK AS FOLDED AND SUBSTANTIALLY ADJACENT THE TOE THEREOF AS DEFINED BY SAID MEDIAL TRANSVERSE AXIS, SAID BLANK BEING STITCHED ALONG SAID DISCONTINUOUS SOLE SEAM, THE OTHER EDGE PORTIONS OF EACH OF SAID OPPOSITELY DISPOSED ELONGATED EDGES DEFINING, IN SAID BLANK AS FOLDED, STILL AN OTHER APERTURE AXIALLY ALIGNED WITH SAID DISCONTINUOUS SOLE SEAM AND HAVING A MEAN WIDTH SUBSTANTIALLY LESS THAN THE MEAN WIDTH OF THE SOLE PORTION OF SAID BLANK. 